Press & Reviews January 2004

Katrina Simmons
The Hamilton Spectator
BURLINGTON - Craig Moore likes to keep life simple, with good food, good wine and the company of friends and family. The menu at Pepperwood Bistro in Burlington, where he is executive chef, reflects this attitude.

"We believe in some of the simpler things in life. Good home cooking. Taking old classics and reinventing them with little bits of twists here and there."

"Food isn't supposed to be difficult; it's just supposed to taste good," he declares, recalling a sous chef with whom he once worked. He cooked food the same way his mother did in Italy 60 years before: very rustic, very basic, with "simple ingredients but fabulous flavours -- Canadian ripe tomatoes, with some basil and good olive oil."

Life is best when it's kept simple, too. Moore would like to see Canadians take a cue from European cultures and slow the pace a little. "I'm a firm believer that restaurants should be closed on Sundays to force people to enjoy their kitchen. Put a roast in the oven. Sit down, have people over, drink some wine, have some fun, enjoy your family or friends."

Food and wine also figure prominently in the travelling he shares with his girlfriend, a sommelier. Their autumn vacation last year was spent discovering the vineyards, wineries and orchards of the Okanagan Valley.
"It's a very comforting thing, knowing that we do have good taste buds in Canada."
Chile (and Chilean wine) could be next on their destination wish list.

"Put me in the hills with some grapes for a couple days, then we'll mosey down to the cities to see what they have to offer."

Surprisingly, with all this talk of simplicity, Moore's favourite cuisine, full of complex flavours, cream sauces and whopping caloric counts, is French.

"There's nothing wrong with a balance," he says, explaining the contradiction. "I'm a firm believer that if you're going to eat it, put it full of cholesterol, put it full of fat, and enjoy yourself," he laughs.
"You do the desserts. You do the wine. You have your framboise. You have all those things that are technically bad for you, but when you leave the table you're satisfied. "It's one of the greatest feelings in the world, being content." Simple, n'est-ce pas?

ksimmons@thespec.com

Peppermint Chocolate Pâté
Makes 8 servings
* 6 oz (165 g) dark chocolate
* 3/4 cup (180 mL) unsalted butter
* 1 1/2 tbsp (22 mL) brewed espresso
* 6 egg yolks
* 3/4 cup (180 mL) white sugar
* 1 cup (250 mL) cocoa
* 2 oz (60 mL) crème de menthe
* 2 cups (500 mL) 35 per cent whipping cream
Combine dark chocolate, butter and espresso in a heat proof bowl; set in a pan of hot water to melt.
In another bowl, combine egg yolks and sugar. Whip until ribbons form.
In a separate bowl, whip the cream until stiff peaks form.
Fold chocolate mixture into egg yolk mixture. Add cocoa and crème de menthe; fold in. Fold in whipped cream ; pour into a mould or tureen. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours until set.
Nutrition per serving: 640 calories; 51 g fat; 7 g protein; 43 g carbohydrates; 5 g fibre